Burberry closes London Fashion Week with a ‘stealth wealth’-inspired show

In case you missed the memo, “quiet luxury” is still having its moment. Despite expert predictions that people (having played it safe with their fashion purchases throughout a cost-of-living crisis) would soon return to embracing a more individual sense of style, the latest Burberry collection was rooted in sumptuous materials, neutral colors and discreet details — all the hallmarks of “stealth wealth” dressing.

Presented on Monday at London’s Tate Britain museum, a stone’s throw from Burberry’s headquarters on Horseferry Road, the British house’s Fall-Winter 2025 show opened with a model wearing a short jacket, riding trousers and scarf with wide fringed edges, all in the same shade of oatmeal. Looks in khaki, brown and maroon soon followed, as did more opulent pieces, including leather trench coats, brocade suits and shearling-lined jackets.

The clothes were modelled by a high-profile cast including runway regulars Naomi Campbell, Edie Campbell and Erin O’ Connor, but also surprise appearances from actors Richard E. Grant, Lesley Manville and Elizabeth McGovern, as well as Lila Moss, the daughter of supermodel Kate Moss. The star-studded front row included actors Nicholas Hoult, Orlando Bloom and Kim Cattrall, among others. (Though, it was a literal knight in shining armor — who also features in Burberry’s newest campaign — that stole that show, as he entertained famous guests by taking selfies with them.)

Probed by media on the speculation that he might be leaving to join Jil Sander (the Milan-based label that shares the same owner as Diesel), Daniel Lee, who is into his fifth fashion show as Burberry’s chief creative officer, vehemently professed his love for Burberry. “It’s really an honor to work for Burberry. It’s an incredible brand,” he told a small group of journalists backstage after the show. “Things are going well. They’re definitely improving. I think we’re all in a really positive place.”

A lot is riding on Lee and CEO Joshua Schulman, who joined in July, to improve the company’s fortunes. Despite being one of British fashion’s biggest luxury brands, Burberry has been beleaguered by plunging sales and profits, costing it a place on the UK’s FTSE 100 index (which brings together the 100 most valuable companies on the London Stock Exchange) last September.

Schulman, who is more than half a year into the role, seemed to be in good spirits as he posed for photographs and sat on the front row next to model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and stylist and former British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful. Some of that may have to do with Burberry’s promising start to the year: the company saw a boost in shares after reporting a smaller-than-expected drop in sales over the holiday period.

After a botched attempt by Burberry to move upmarket, Schulman outlined a new strategy for the struggling brand in November, which included a greater focus on its key emblems, such as outerwear and its signature check, and a wider pricing structure. Schulman also shared an annual revenue target of £3 billion (about $3.7 billion), but did not provide a specific timeline for achieving that goal. Burberry reported annual revenues of £2.97 billion ($3.75 billion) for the 2024 fiscal year.

Continued emphasis on Burberry’s heritage was clearly on the mind of Lee, who shared his fascination with the portrayal of British high society in period dramas. “I would say that probably ‘Saltburn’ (the dark comedy starring actor Barry Keoghan, a Burberry ambassador) was the first movie that kicked me off onto that trip,” Lee said. “I really enjoyed how people lived in this old, incredible mansion, dressed in an eccentric way for dinner and had crazy parties. It was this kind of bohemian spirit (and) energy that I wanted to portray in the show.”

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As for the collection’s earthy colors, Lee explained that he had “spent a lot of time over the holidays, walking in nature, in Yorkshire,” where he hails from. That felt fitting for Burberry, which “is an incredible coat brand,” Lee said. “People associate coats with protecting them from the outdoors and the weather. And Burberry is a brand that’s made for being on-the-go, being outside, and being able to (sustain) different types of weather and terrain.”

What’s apparent is a feeling of comfort from Lee. Much like the cozy wintry pieces he had on show, the designer also appeared more relaxed than usual — so much so that one might wonder if he has his eye on an exit, or whether he simply feels more at ease in the job. Time will tell, although one hopes for a different outcome to “Saltburn”: a lavish house, with characters stuck in old ways and an ill-fated end. The film is set in 2006, which coincidentally marks the center-point of Burberry’s heyday. Make of that what you will.